The Chart

Where the Ship Is

A dot a day, satellite link permitting. The dashed line is where I have already been; the solid ring is where I am now. Positions are approximate and, on days I forget, made up.

Latest fix

Pacific Ocean, off Baja California

Sunday, 1 November · 27.2000° N, 115.4000° W

Dolphins at the bow at sunrise, heading south towards Panama.

Position log

Sunday, 1 November
Pacific Ocean, off Baja California
Dolphins at the bow at sunrise, heading south towards Panama.
Saturday, 31 October
Off Baja California, Mexico
Halloween in the mess, a pumpkin carved like the ship, and a very small pie.
Friday, 30 October
Port of Long Beach, California
Shore leave. A Porsche on the Pacific Coast Highway, tea from Santa Monica, sailed at nine in the evening.
Thursday, 29 October
Port of Long Beach, California
Pilot at dawn, alongside by nine, and land sickness on the quay.
Wednesday, 28 October
Off the California coast
Arrival paperwork, Marco ironing everything, and a cat who will not leave my bag.
Tuesday, 27 October
North Pacific, approaching California
Last full day of the Pacific. Two cups on the bridge wing at sunset.
Monday, 26 October
North Pacific
A Laysan albatross follows us all day. Coleridge in the library.
Sunday, 25 October
North Pacific
Blue skies, a little more speed for Long Beach, and Container on lookout duty.
Saturday, 24 October
North Pacific
The dream garage grows to ten spaces, and the brass turns out to be a knob for my biscuit tin.
Friday, 23 October
North Pacific
Deck rounds with Tiny after the gale. Every lashing checked, one tightened by me.
Thursday, 22 October
North Pacific
An autumn gale. Spray over the bow, plain toast, and a phone call from the bridge.
Wednesday, 21 October
North Pacific
The Starboard Minds win trivia at last, on a question about the Miata.
Tuesday, 20 October
North Pacific
No goulash. Ethiopian night in the mess, no forks, and one stew with a warning.
Monday, 19 October
North Pacific
Scrabble on the middle watch. BISCUIT for the win, and a word worth nine that I keep thinking about.
Sunday, 18 October
North Pacific
Tiny's workshop, a fifty year old lathe, and a mysterious piece of brass.
Saturday, 17 October
North Pacific, just east of the date line
The same Saturday twice, a paper crown, and initiation into the Domain of the Golden Dragon.
Friday, 16 October
North Pacific, approaching the date line
A calm day, a long walk with my silent shadow, and a mystery about locked doors.
Thursday, 15 October
North Pacific, near the date line
A detour towards a sailing vessel in distress, until another ship reached them first. All safe.
Wednesday, 14 October
North Pacific
Container perfects the art of being beside my face at dawn, wherever she started the night.
Tuesday, 13 October
North Pacific
Dawn drinks with Priya, an increasingly public biscuit collection, and a Pacific crossing measured in small familiar rituals.
Monday, 12 October
North Pacific
Tiny and I resume the imaginary engine swaps, with Big Kev providing engineering criticism nobody had requested.
Sunday, 11 October
North Pacific
Grey skies, a borrowed book, and Container taking charge of a day with very little to report.
Saturday, 10 October
North Pacific
Elena takes the world menu outdoors, two birthdays are celebrated, and my policy on desserts undergoes public scrutiny again.
Friday, 9 October
North Pacific, east of Japan
Our early bridge visits are becoming a habit, and Priya has developed surprisingly precise views on biscuit selection.
Thursday, 8 October
Pacific Ocean, south of Honshu
A supervised turn with the fire hose produces considerably more joy than is dignified for a man my age.
Wednesday, 7 October
Pacific Ocean, south of Shikoku
A bridge view of the fire drill reveals how much quiet preparation sits underneath an uneventful day at sea.
Tuesday, 6 October
Pacific Ocean, south of Kyushu
Tiny and I begin assembling a dream garage in a room full of machinery that makes all our engines look decorative.
Monday, 5 October
East China Sea, west of Kyushu
Elena continues the journey around the world one dinner at a time, with Korea receiving a thoroughly convincing second visit.
Sunday, 4 October
Korea Strait, south of Busan
The cranes recede, the Pacific waits, and the biscuit collection acquires a regular appointment.
Saturday, 3 October
Busan, South Korea
Coffee for Priya, tea for me, and a dawn assessment of a collection I had previously considered private.
Friday, 2 October
Busan, South Korea
Busan supplies another impressive port, a short shopping expedition, and biscuits that immediately attract senior management.
Thursday, 1 October
Korea Strait, approaching Busan
Container follows me to the bow, Priya retains the title, and Busan waits beyond the mist.
Wednesday, 30 September
East China Sea
The last game of September goes to one point, one biscuit, and one merciless opponent.
Tuesday, 29 September
East China Sea
Grey weather closes in once more, but the sea remains calm and the ship carries on.
Monday, 28 September
East China Sea
Ramen, dumplings, and a dessert that prompts negotiations over the final portion.
Sunday, 27 September
Shanghai, China
A vast port, rapid cranes, and biscuits bought under severe time pressure.
Saturday, 26 September
Shanghai approaches
The blue sea gives way to the broad silty water of the Yangtze approaches.
Friday, 25 September
East China Sea
I win one, Priya demands an immediate review, and Container interferes with the evidence.
Thursday, 24 September
South China coast
Meat pies appear off the Chinese coast and Big Kev claims expert status.
Wednesday, 23 September
Hong Kong
Six hours ashore, one tram ride, and a biscuit tin selected mainly for its lid.
Tuesday, 22 September
Hong Kong anchorage
We anchor beneath a wall of lights and wait our turn for the cranes.
Monday, 21 September
Taiwan Strait
Mountains rise through clean air and the ship seems suddenly close to everything.
Sunday, 20 September
South of Taiwan
Scrabble becomes a championship because Priya writes Championship on the score sheet.
Saturday, 19 September
Luzon Strait
The traffic thins, the swell rises slightly, and Taiwan appears ahead.
Friday, 18 September
South China Sea
Black beans, slow cooked pork, orange, and silence around the table.
Thursday, 17 September
South China Sea
Container now follows me everywhere and has developed opinions about the engine control room.
Wednesday, 16 September
South China Sea
A bucket, a brush, a safety harness, and the least glamorous repair of the voyage.
Tuesday, 15 September
South China Sea
The seagulls strike the communications equipment and the internet loses.
Monday, 14 September
South China Sea
Moussaka returns in a form my stomach agrees to discuss.
Sunday, 13 September
South China Sea
Singapore drops astern and the ship begins the long turn toward East Asia.
Saturday, 12 September
Singapore
Singapore provides tea, biscuits, and a shopping receipt of alarming length.
Friday, 11 September
Singapore
Cranes begin their precise work and the cabin fills with the sound of a port.
Thursday, 10 September
Singapore Strait
At anchor among hundreds of ships, close enough to a city to see its windows.
Wednesday, 9 September
Strait of Malacca
We cross the equator with a board game, pineapple biscuits, and disputed arithmetic.
Tuesday, 8 September
Port Klang, Malaysia
Another port, another hurried search for supplies, and a tin featuring a building I did not visit.
Monday, 7 September
Strait of Malacca
The sea fills with ships, fishing boats, lights, and reasons to stay out of the way.
Sunday, 6 September
Andaman Sea
A green line appears to port and the menu travels to Japan.
Saturday, 5 September
Andaman Sea
Two fast aircraft arrive without warning and leave the whole deck looking upward.
Friday, 4 September
Bay of Bengal
A strip of blue appears, everyone notices, and then the cloud closes again.
Thursday, 3 September
Bay of Bengal
Risotto on a moving ship proves that Elena has either courage or supernatural timing.
Wednesday, 2 September
Bay of Bengal
A close Scrabble game ends with Priya winning by one tile and behaving with restraint.
Tuesday, 1 September
Indian Ocean, east of Sri Lanka
Colombo falls behind, the mist returns, and the new biscuits are tested properly.
Monday, 31 August
Colombo anchorage, Sri Lanka
A short port call produces ginger biscuits, coconut biscuits, and unreasonable happiness.
Sunday, 30 August
Laccadive Sea
Land is close enough to smell but not to see, and dinner visits France.
Saturday, 29 August
Arabian Sea
A second day without a horizon and a cat that refuses to lose sight of me.
Friday, 28 August
Arabian Sea
Cloud closes over the ship, the horizon disappears, and the sea stays oddly gentle.
Thursday, 27 August
Arabian Sea
A rematch, a disputed word, and an appeal process with only one judge.
Wednesday, 26 August
Arabian Sea
Priya produces a Scrabble board and an atmosphere usually associated with international competition.
Tuesday, 25 August
Arabian Sea
Enchiladas arrive in the Arabian Sea, followed by a firm ruling on portions.
Monday, 24 August
Arabian Sea
Four miles around the deck, a calm sea, and nothing requiring an answer.
Sunday, 23 August
Arabian Sea
The Rotterdam supplies are counted, judged, and found dangerously low.
Saturday, 22 August
Gulf of Aden
Elena begins her menu around the world, starting with a curry that silences the mess.
Friday, 21 August
Gulf of Aden
The ocean opens ahead and the ship settles into the long eastward run.
Thursday, 20 August
Bab el Mandeb
The Red Sea narrows, the traffic thickens, and Container begins following me to breakfast.
Wed, 19 Aug
Red Sea, off Sudan
The pillow has fallen. Six weeks at sea. Bab el Mandeb in a couple of days.
Tue, 18 Aug
Red Sea
Flying fish, in numbers. Trivia, third place, and a debrief I did not enjoy.
Mon, 17 Aug
Red Sea
Forty one degrees. The chocolate did not survive. The tea did.
Sun, 16 Aug
Suez Canal
A building sliding through a desert at eight knots. The pilot talked for six hours.
Sat, 15 Aug
Port Said anchorage, Egypt
At anchor with thirty ships, waiting for a convoy slot. No shore leave for passengers.
Fri, 14 Aug
Eastern Mediterranean
Two hours in the engine room with Kev. My Miata turbo was, he says, a little one.
Thu, 13 Aug
Central Mediterranean, south of Malta
Thirty four degrees on deck. Suez paperwork season begins.
Wed, 12 Aug
Off Tunisia
A floating container off the port bow. Checked. Not ours. Apparently routine.
Tue, 11 Aug
Western Mediterranean
Film night. From Russia with Love. I have been assigned a role.
Mon, 10 Aug
Alboran Sea
The pool is filled. I have swum in a steel box on a moving ship.
Sun, 9 Aug
Strait of Gibraltar
Europe to port, Africa to starboard, and everyone off watch suddenly on deck.
Sat, 8 Aug
Off Portugal
The Atlantic went flat. An hour at the rail doing nothing at all.
Fri, 7 Aug
Off northwest Spain
The Captain briefed me in twelve words. Warm now. Do not fall off the ship.
Thu, 6 Aug
Bay of Biscay
Four miles walked round the boxes. Biscay behaved itself again.
Wed, 5 Aug
Western approaches
Container has advanced to knee level. This is a campaign, not a coincidence.
Tue, 4 Aug
English Channel
Back at sea with a stash. Forty one minutes in a Rotterdam supermarket, fully planned.
Mon, 3 Aug
North Sea, departing Rotterdam
Cast off on the tide. Tea supplies secured. Next stop, eventually, the Suez Canal.
Sun, 2 Aug
Rotterdam, NL
Still in port. Container has not shown any interest in going ashore.
Sat, 1 Aug
Rotterdam, NL
In port. Eighteen hours of shore leave planned around tea bags and ground that does not move.
Fri, 31 Jul
Rotterdam, NL
Arrived at the container terminal. Land, at last, and a list of things to buy.
Thu, 30 Jul
North Sea
Plain rice and plain toast continue. Elena is treating the situation like a pro.
Wed, 29 Jul
English Channel
Quiz night. The Starboard Minds came second. Respectable, apparently, is not enough.
Tue, 28 Jul
Bay of Biscay, approaching the Channel
Kite flying on the bridge deck. Priya issued instructions. The kite obeyed.
Mon, 27 Jul
Bay of Biscay
Seagulls have begun to judge us. Container has begun to colonise the accommodation.
Sun, 26 Jul
Atlantic Ocean, approaching Biscay
Seagulls have taken the top deck. Land must be thinking about us.
Sat, 25 Jul
Atlantic Ocean, western approaches
Peach cobbler. Two helpings. No apology offered.
Fri, 24 Jul
Atlantic Ocean
Clear blue skies, all day, in every direction. Nothing to report and everything to look at.
Thu, 23 Jul
Atlantic Ocean, north of the Azores
The engine room, at last. Kev was proud. I was very small.
Wed, 22 Jul
Atlantic Ocean
Tiny fishing off the stern with a hand line and total confidence.
Tue, 21 Jul
Atlantic Ocean
Kev promised a cathedral sized turbocharger. I have been thinking about it all day.
Mon, 20 Jul
Atlantic Ocean, mid crossing
A birthday I had not mentioned. A pie I did not expect. A song I did not enjoy.
Sun, 19 Jul
Atlantic Ocean
Sunday tea tasting with Elena. Six bags, ranked. Two contenders.
Sat, 18 Jul
Atlantic Ocean
Discovered the ship's library. A shelf in a corridor, entirely unlabelled.
Fri, 17 Jul
Atlantic Ocean
Finished the last of the three books. Considered starting one again.
Thu, 16 Jul
Atlantic Ocean, roughly 900 nm east of Savannah
The tea stash discovered. A formal tasting is now scheduled.
Wed, 15 Jul
Atlantic Ocean
Eye spy on the bridge at 02:30. Priya, three straight.
Tue, 14 Jul
Atlantic Ocean
The deck pool filled. I was the only swimmer.
Mon, 13 Jul
Atlantic Ocean, roughly 600 nm east of Savannah
Passenger guilt setting in. Told to write something down.
Sun, 12 Jul
Atlantic Ocean
The smell of the ship resolved into something I still cannot name.
Sat, 11 Jul
Atlantic Ocean
Land gone. The horizon does the work now.
Fri, 10 Jul
Atlantic Ocean, off the Carolinas
Cast off on the tide. Savannah, then a widening gap of water.
Thu, 9 Jul
Berth 8, Garden City Terminal
Boarded. Marco took the duffel. The Chief Officer mm'd.
Wed, 8 Jul
Savannah, GA
Medical on Bull Street. Two questions, one stamp.
Tue, 7 Jul
Savannah, GA
Paperwork with Doreen. Forms about forms.
Mon, 6 Jul · evening
Savannah, GA
Arrived at the guest house. Oysters, on principle.
Mon, 6 Jul · pm
Macon, GA
Boiled peanut pilgrimage. Ninety allocated minutes; fifteen required.
Mon, 6 Jul
Atlanta, GA
Left Peachtree Station on the 06:42 southbound.